Dai Yue Xuan

Dai Yue Xuan has been binding brushes on Liulichang for over a century, and the shop still looks like a Qing-dynasty stationer's: glass cases of graduated brushes, walls hung with calligraphy, and a craftsman at the back bench assembling new ones from hair, bamboo, and string.

The best brushes cost more than a good dinner - and are worth it, because a well-made brush outlives its owner. Staff can match a brush to your skill level and even engrave a name on the shaft. Pair a visit with neighboring Yi De Ge for the complete scholar's kit.