Pei Jie Hotpot

In a city built on hotpot, Pei Jie is the one locals queue for. The broth is thick with chilies and Sichuan peppercorns, the tripe arrives impossibly fresh, and the dipping sauces are a ritual in themselves.

Tourists are welcomed: staff are used to nervous first-timers and will dial the spice to your courage level. Go early or expect to queue - it is worth it.