Mei Yuan

Mei Yuan is the flagship Chinese restaurant of the Jinling Hotel, the landmark tower that has hosted Nanjing's state banquets since the 1980s. The kitchen is a temple of Huaiyang technique - knife-cut tofu in clear broth, jade-like meatballs, and seasonal fish cooked with surgical precision.

The dining room feels like a diplomatic reception, and the service is white-glove throughout. For travelers, a lunch here is the most graceful introduction to the cuisine of the lower Yangtze: ceremonial, delicious, and surprisingly approachable with the English menu.