Duo Yun Xuan
Huangpu, Shanghai
Shanghai's 120-year-old house of brushes and ink, where painters buy their tools and collectors bid on masters.
Duo Yun Xuan has been the spiritual home of Shanghai's artists since 1900, when it opened as the city's first major art-supply and auction house. Today its Nanjing East Road flagship is still a working atelier: counters of hand-made brushes, ink, and paper, an upper-floor gallery of contemporary Chinese painting, and a famous auction arm.
Drop in to buy a brush that Shanghai's painters actually use, watch a calligrapher at the demonstration table, or simply wander the gallery - admission is free and the collection turns over constantly. It is the most authentic art stop on the Nanjing Road tourist trail.
Best for: Shanghai's temple of brushes, ink, and living Chinese painting.
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