Yu Wai Tan

Yu Wai Tan (Encountering the Bund) does two things spectacularly: Fujian cuisine and location. The dining room looks straight across the Huangpu River at the illuminated towers of Lujiazui, while the kitchen explores the subtle, broth-obsessed cooking of Fujian - Buddha jumps over the wall, red-yeast pork, and seafood so fresh it barely needs cooking.

It is a rare combination of glamorous setting and genuinely scholarly food, and the staff will patiently walk newcomers through the region's traditions. Book a window table at sunset and let the restaurant pour the tea pairings.