
Song He Lou
Gusu, Suzhou
A Suzhou institution since 1757, home of the legendary squirrel-shaped mandarin fish.
Song He Lou has served Suzhou cuisine since the Qianlong era, and its signature squirrel mandarin fish - a whole fish scored, fried, and drenched in sweet-sour sauce - is a dish people cross provinces for.
The flagship on Guanqian Street is the classic. Order the fish, a pot of Biluochun tea, and let the waiter steer you through the seasonal menu.
Best for: The definitive taste of Suzhou, at a table with two and a half centuries of history.
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