Nanwenquan Hot Springs

The springs at Nanwenquan have bubbled since the Qing dynasty, when officials built pavilions over them. Today a dozen pools terrace up a forested hillside above the Yangtze, from chest-warm soaks to a 42-degree main pool.

It is less glossy than a luxury spa and all the more real for it. Go on a weekday evening, soak until the lanterns come on, and take the old funicular down.