Guiyu Shanfang

Guiyu Shanfang (Osmanthus Fragrance Mountain House) sits among the osmanthus trees of Manjuelong, where the autumn air smells of flowers and the dining room looks out on a bamboo courtyard. The kitchen serves Hangzhou classics at their most refined - West Lake fish, longjing shrimp, and the famous osmanthus cake.

Every meal begins and ends with tea poured by staff who treat it as seriously as the wine list. It is romantic, quiet, and entirely of the place - the restaurant Hangzhou insiders book for anniversaries and the kind of dinner that ends with everyone promising to return.